SABAH - KOTA KINABALU (1997)

BY: HJ ZULHEIMY MAAMOR

4 JUNE 2024

Sabah often referred to "Land below the Wind" (Negeri dibawah Bayu),occupies the eastern part of North Borneo. Covering an area of 74,500 sq km, Sabah is the second largest state in Malaysia after Sarawak, its state capital is Kota Kinabalu. 

Home to 32 different indigenous groups that consist of over 30 ethnic races,Sabah is often described as the people that makes visiting Sabah so special. 

KOTA KINABALU

Formerly known as Jesselton, Kota Kinabalu is the capital of Sabah. Affectionaly nicknamed KK by the locals, it's a coastal city partly surrounded by rainforest. Kota Kinabalu is the gateway to Kinabalu National Park, the home of Mount Kinabalu, the highest mountain in Borneo Island and Malaysia. 

The first time I set foot in KK was around 1981/82 when I served with the Royal Malaysian Navy ship KD Raja Jarom based in Woodlands, Singapore. KD Raja Jarom often moored in Sarawak and Sabah's harbors.

The second time I visited Kota Kinabalu was in 1997 with my family. We were on vacation at our brother's house who was working as a Sime Bank Manager in Kota Kinabalu at the time. He lives with his family in Graceville, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah.

Sime Bank (Formerly United Asian Bank) was owned by Sime Darby at the time. Shortly after 1997, Sime Bank integrated into RHB Bank.

Staying at Grace Ville in Sembulan in 1997, it is a townhouse style architecture and lush landscapping. Located nearby Sutera Harbour Resort was just being completed at the time. 

Not far from my brother's house, there is a memorial,the Double Six Memorial, a memorial to remember the tragedy of the plane crash on June 6, 1976, known as the Double Six Tragedy, which claimed the lives of Sabah's First Chief Minister, the late Tun Fuad Stephen and 6 of Sabah ministers. 

TOUR IN KOTA KINABALU

On the first day, our brother took us for a walk around the city of Kota Kinabalu. Among those visited are the Sabah Plant Heritage Center, the Sabah Handicraft Center, the Philippine Market, the Sabah Museum, and many more.

A simple lunch outing at Mt. Kinabalu Restaurant on 3 June 1997, captured in a quiet moment of togetherness. Standing beneath the wooden sign, unaware that this ordinary day would one day become a treasured memory. The fashion, the colors, the smiles, and even the slightly faded look of the photograph all reflect a slower time—before smartphones, before everything moved so fast. Moments like these remind us that it’s often the simplest gatherings, shared meals, and familiar faces that stay closest to the heart as the years go by.

The Sabah Plant Heritage Centre is locate within the Sabah Museum Ethnobotanical Gardens. This garden was established to preserve and showcase the relationship between Sabah's indigenous people and the local flora. It features a wide variety of medicinal plants, traditional crops and flowers used in local rituals. 

The Sabah Museum located just 4 km from the city center on Jalan Muzium, opened in 1984. The large building nearby inspired by traditional Rungus longhouse architechture, contains galleries for natural history, ethnography and archaelogy. 

TANJUNG ARU BEACH

Among the famous in Kota Kinabalu is Tanjung Aru Beach which is located approximately 2.7 km from Grace Ville.

We took the opportunity to have a picnic on this beach which is very beautiful beach..... My brother said that people prefer to come to this beach during sunset to see and take photos of the sunset on this beach.

Tanjung Aru Beach have a highlight of any family trip to Kota Kinabalu.It was a go-to spot for locals and tourists alike to catch the legendary sunset over the South China Sea. 

I remember the open-air food food court area, famous for its steamed corn, grilled chicken wings and the iconic ABC (Ais Kacang) of giant glasses of avocado and mango juice. 

The beach is named after the Aru (Casuarina) tree that lined the shore, providing plenty of shade for family picnics.

KUNDASANG, SABAH

KG NABALU

On June 2, 1997, we left Kota Kinabalu for Kundasang, Sabah, which is a distance of 94.7 km and takes approximately 2 hours and 7 minutes to reach. The journey from kk to kundasang is 101 km and takes 2 hours 37 minutes.

Kundasang is a hill station in the district of Ranau in Sabah, known for its cool climate, breathtaking landscapes and rich cultural heritage. 

Before reaching our accommodation at Seri Intan Resort, we made a brief stop at Kg. Nabalu or Pekan Nabalu, a small town that is frequently visited by tourists. This town used to be a rest stop for tourists on their way to Kinabalu Park.

One of the many small villages located along the road from Kota Kinabalu to Kinabalu Park, Pekan Nabalu, at roughly 1000m above sea level, has one of the best views of Mount Kinabalu and its surrounding. 

Stopping at Pekan Nabalu was a "must-do" tradition for any family road trip heading from Kota Kinabalu to Kundasang.

In the late 90's, Nabalu was the primary rest area before the final steep climb to Kundasang. It sits about 12 km from the Kinabalu Park entrance. For many, it was the place to stretch your legs. 

The name "Nabalu" comes from the Dusun word for "Mountain". The local people believe the mountain is a sacred resting place for the spirits of their ancestors, and Nabalu serves as the gateway to that sacred land. 

I still remember my brother and I going to buy roti canai in this town, not far from the resort we were staying at. Apparently, there is also a Mamak restaurant near Kundasang.

TM RESORT,KUNDASANG

TM Resort located near the Kundasang Mosque, situated on the hills with rooms that offer panoramic view of Mount Kinabalu. Few minutes walks to Pekan Kundasang. 

Staying at Sri Intan Resort (owned by Telekom Malaysia) would have been a very exclusive and cozy experience. The resort is tucked away on Jalan Masjid, located on a highter slope than many other hotels in the area. 

1997 was a peak era for TM Net as the internet was just starting to boom in Malaysia. Staying at a "Telekom Resort" back then felt quite prestigious, as it was part of one of the country's most modern and important companies.

KUNDASANG WAR MEMORIAL

Kundasang War Memorial, established in 1962, was one of the first memorial to commemorate the brave Australian and British Prisoners of War who died in Sandakan and during the infamous Sandakan Death Marches to Ranau during World War II. The memorial also remembers the people of North Borneo who risked their lives to help the POWs. 

PORING HOT SPRING, RANAU, SABAH
After spending one night at Sri Intan Resort, Kundasang, on the morning of June 3, after breakfast, we left for the Poring Hot Spring Bridge, which is located approximately 35 km from Kundasang. It is located in Ranau district, Sabah. The journey takes about 48 minutes to get there.
Poring is the Kadazan-Dusun name for a type of bamboo that grows in the area. Poring Hot Spring Park is famous for its Hot Spring Pool and Hanging Bridge, which are 157.8 m long and 41 m high above the trees.

Poring Hot Spring Bridge in Ranau, the famous suspension bridge (canopy walkway) area. Poring was a world-renowned spot for its therapeutic hot sulfur baths and the chance to see the Rafflesia flower. 

PONDOK TIMPOHON, KINABALU PARK, KUNDASANG, SABAH

From the Poring Hot Spring Bridge, we left for Kundasang towards Pondok Timpohon. There are two routes to Kinabalu Park: one through Timpohon Gate and the other through Mesilau.

Pondok Timpohon is the Entrance gate & checkpoint for climbers ascending Mt. Kinabalu, with mini market and viewing deck. 

Pondok Timpohon, the starting point for climbers heading up to Mount Kinabalu. Even if you weren't climbing to the summit, it was (and still is) a popular spot for visitors to see the "gateway" to the peaks.

DINNER AT MENGGATAL, SABAH

From Kundasang, we left for Menggatal for dinner. The journey from Pondok Timpohon to Menggatal is quite far, approximately 78.2 km, and takes 1 hour and 22 minutes.

Menggatal is a small town located in the West Coast district of Sabah. Menggatal is the name of a type of mango tree that, when eaten, can cause itching. The fruit is called Mangga Gatal and eventually becomes Menggatal.

The name Pekan Menggatal has now been changed to Pekan Manggatal due to certain reasons in terms of the meaning of Menggatal in the Malay language.

Our family Dinner at Rafflesia Seafood in Menggatal was the perfect cultural finale. This restaurant was a legendary fixture of the late 90's in Sabah. Among the restaurant signature features was the traditional culturan performances.

While you dined, dancers would perform ethnic dances from Sabah's various tribes, such as the Sumazau (Kadazan-Dusun) or the Magunatip (Murut bamboo dance). In your photo, you can see the male dancers in traditional warrior attire with feather headdresses, ready to perform on the raised wooden stage.

RETURN TO KUALA LUMPUR

After a few days in Sabah, we finally returned to Kuala Lumpur on 7 June 1997. It is worth it to visit Kota Kinabalu aside from its beautiful city, mountain and islands. Kota Kinabalu is a perfect city to gain insight on Sabah's heritage in the form of cultural villages. Kota Kinabalu is a good place to spend a couple of days before exploring the rest of Sabah in Malaysia. 

In 1997, Menggatal was a quieter suburb of Kota Kinabalu. Rafflesia Seafood was one of the major destination restaurants in the area.It was strategically located for tour groups and families returning from a day trip to Kinabalu Park or Poring Hot Springs. 

GOOD BYE SABAH!!

Hj Zulheimy Maamor

Lembah Keramat, K.L

5 June 2024 > 28 Zulkaedah 1445H: 10.48 p.m

THOSE WERE THE DAYS : THE KAMPUNG LIFE

BY HJ ZULHEIMY MAAMOR

25 MAY 2024

Kampong in Malay refers to a hamlet or village. The old fashioned kampong in those days (60’s and 70’s) didn’t really have too much electricity, where every evening my grandfather would light the gasoline lamp for the night and the basic form and structure of most ‘kampong’ houses are similar, most have attap houses.

Life in a kampong those days was mostly harmonious and it was not uncommon for people to readily offer their neighbours food, help and support.

Although I grew up in the city of Kuala Lumpur, I still have my mother’s and father's village in Melaka and Negeri Sembilan. Growing in the 60’s and 70’s was simply epic, life was much different then. It is the day that you spend only 50 cents to school, where you can have a bowl of Mee Curry and drinks at school canteen. Those who brings 1 Ringgit to school was considered rich and gained plenty of ‘friends’. But that's not what I want to scribble here; what I want to write about is a life in the village in those days in the 70’s.

When I was a kid, we would go back to my Mom’s and my father’s kampong every Hari Raya or on special occasion. My father's village is in Lubok China Negeri Sembilan while my mother's is in Lubok China Melaka, bordering between the two villages.

Before the existence of the North-South highway, the journey back to my Kampong would take about 6 hours through the old roads passing the villages and towns around, Selangor, Negeri Sembilan and Melaka. Nowadays through the highway it takes about 2-3 hours only.

For me, Kampong life is still the best, people are much more relaxed in the kampong and life move much more slowly . I would miss the day when my cousins and I would run around the kampong and swim in the river, just a whole lot of outdoors activities.

And at night, before bedtime, we would gather and got horror stories to tell. There is no gadget and internet at the time and that is great. Yet another scariest part was , if you have a stomach ache in the middle of the night, particularly if no one was willing to accompany you to the external toilets, the toilet that was located outside the house at that time. Then, you have no choice but to go to the toilet alone at night. Later, one of your cousins will knock on the toilet door and make creepy noises while you are inside... you can imagine how you feel at that time.... hahaha

Man, do you know how much I miss those days at Kampung life in the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s. Unfortunately, I rarely been there since my grandparents and my parents passed away, but I’m glad I experienced it, unlike some friends of mine who were born and raised in big cities.

As you can see these days, children and teenagers today, their favourite pastimes are watching Youtube and playing video games on their handheld gadgets, not to forget surfing the internet and keeping themselves updated on social media. That’s what life is like for our children and youngsters, used to be different during our times in the 60’s and 70’s.

Gone are the days where children went to the river or stream to catch fighting fish and climbed up trees in the jungle to pick fruits. Some of them would feel embrassed to be labeled as Kampung kids, little do they realise that people who grew up in the era before the arrival of the internet and digital gadgets were generally resilient and independent, thank to their kampong life and upbringing which taught them valuable lessons, on how to fend for themselves and overcome challenges……

I remember Mary Hopkins with here song “THOSE WERE THE DAYS”… some of the lyrics that really touch my soul…

Those were the days, my friend

We thought they'd never end

We'd sing and dance forever and a day

We'd live the life we choose

We'd fight and never lose

Those were the days, oh yes, those were the days

Hj Zulheimy Maamor

Lembah Keramat, K.L

25 May 2024 :16 Zulkaedah 1445H": 10.59 a.m